Tales from Manhigut...

Tuesday 22nd June 2010: West Bank Security Fence

The morning was spent in the areas of Jerusalem close to the West Bank security fence. We were joined by Uri, a strong supporter of the fence's construction and maintenance on the basis that Jerusalem's security has been greatly enhanced and tourism thus sustained.

The issue of the security fence is controversial. Its construction became official Israeli government policy from around mid-2002, in response to the many suicide bombings afflicted upon Israel since the early 2000s. Some right-wing Israeli politicians viewed its construction as an attempt to divide the Holy Land, while left-wing politicians asserted that all chances of a two-state solution would be dashed.

More generally, the debate surrounding the fence is about striking a balance between Israel's absolute need to defend herself (the lives lost in suicide bombings are irreversible) and the impact on those living in Palestinian Authority-controlled areas. Uri also went through some of the ways in which the Western media has been misleading, for example the idea that the fence amounts to apartheid.

The highlight was our visiting Rachel's Tomb. I had neither heard of it, nor known about the fact that it was protected by the security fence. The tour group hotly debated the merits of having a holy site surrounded by a wall, and whether the Palestinian Authority ought to be trusted in its protection.

On the whole, a fascinating morning, giving me a greater understanding of one of the more contemporary aspects of the conflict.

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Jerusalem: a magnificent city of history, culture, religion and politics, a city full of tension, a city which asks so many questions and yet I struggle to find many answers.

Our first day in Israel took us to the religious sites of the capital's old city. We saw the Dome of the Rock, a beautiful golden-domed Mosque in blue mosaic on the site where Mohammed ascended to Allah, holy too for Jews as this is where the Messiah will rebuild the temple. This site is currently under Israeli sovereignty but with autonomous Muslim control, a solution which I believe works as the best compromise, yet fails to satisfy either religion's desire for full control and access.

We then went to the Western Wall, the holiest remaining site in Judaism as the only remaining part of the ancient temple. It was interesting how the group connected to this in such a variety of ways: some found a religious and spiritual significance, some connected to the fact that their family and ancestors have prayed here, some recognised the importance for politics and national identity that such a site remains Israeli territory. We finished with the Christian Church where Jesus was killed, control of which is desired by multiple groups of monks, yet again a site a beauty, historical and religious meaning, and tension.

I think it's tragic that a city so interesting and impressive, with so much to offer to all, is fought over by the very people for whom it is most special. Must Jerusalem be divided into two capitals for two states? Must it come under the control of the UN if no long-term agreements can be reached? I'm convinced that we can find peace, but, sorry, I'm not sure exactly how or if everyone is quite ready to compromise and respect.

Sophie

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Day Two: East Jerusalem Settlements

As a group we went round to look at both Jewish and Arab settlements within the east Jerusalem. We went to see the Arab village of Jabel Kaba and the Jewish neighbourhood of Nof Zion. When we went round to them I could see a big difference with in the different settlements. Firstly when we went to Nof Zion there were 200 housing units which have been approved. Our tour leader Jeremy Leigh said that people built there as they believed that they weren't going anywhere and they felt that even if they had to they wouldn't be moving. When I was looking at the Jewish settlements it was expecting a lot worse than it was. However some of the group thoughts felt that it was weird being there and they didn't feel like they were in the same city.

In contrast when we went to Jabel Kaba I felt very weird and didn't feel like I was in Israel. Everything was difference they didn't have pavements, the way the rubbish is collected, the infrastructure and buildings. Our tour leader said that 90% on a day to day basis Jews and Arabs never speak and have never communicated and 99% on a weekly basis. This fact made me really upset and the fact that the settlement was so different from the Jewish one. I feel like the Arabs live in very harsh conditions and I feel like I went into to the day very blinded and now I feel like this has opened up my eyes up a lot and has given me a balanced view.

The last couple of days on this trip has changed the way I see things and the way I go into a situation now and the way I approach situations. I am very much looking forward to the rest of the trip and using all the information I gain and learn and taking it back to my campus.

Natalie L